The Burmese Tragedy
Just finished reading Ron Graham’s latest book — The Informal Imperialist, Dr. Clement Williams at the court of King Mindon, Mandalay, 1861-1879, River Books.
I loved it!
Some of you might say, but John, you have always been obsessed by Burma and have spent a lot of time there. True. It is a remarkable and mysterious place which seems to have gone from drama to drama over the years. It is also a fascinating civilization, surrounded by many smaller civilizations which, for example, are often called hill tribes.
The Irrawaddy is a great river. Somehow, over time, it has always carried with it enormous melodramas. Right up to today, with Aung San Suu Kyi still in prison, and military dictators still in place.
Graham’s book takes us into the heart of Burma as a kingdom and through the reigns of its last two monarchs, Mindon and Thibaw. What is fascinating is the way in which Graham brings out their personalities — their human side.
All of this happens with the full theatre of growing British imperialism. A few of the local British tried to protect the kingdom, while others were determined to take it over. Guess who wins? Clement Williams was one of those who tried to help King Mindon, and had a strong personal interest in Burmese culture.
A tiny, fascinating detail which tells you everything about imperialism — the British were obsessed by the fact that you had to take off your shoes when you went into the Royal Court. It never struck them that in many Asian countries it’s considered loutish, uneducated, uncivilized to stomp into a room with your boots on.
Civilized people take off whatever they have on their feet, walk quietly, show respect and sit either on a raised floor or on low tables, usually on beautiful carpets or silk mattresses, leaning on silk cushions. A lot more civilized than boots, chairs and tables.
I’m slipping slightly off topic, but apart from being a moving portrait of the culture and politics at the core of a dying monarchy faced by English aggressivity, Graham’s book is an amazing portrait of another place and another way of living.
